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Housing
The absolute smallest cage for a bird is one in which the bird can outstretch
and flap its wings without hitting the cage sides. This is usually at least twice
the distance of its wingspan. However, the best sized cage is the largest one that
can be accommodated in the home. For parrots, the cage should not be constructed
of wire but rather of iron. Galvanized wires should be avoided at all costs due to
the lead and zinc toxicity of this type of coating. Powder coated and vinyl coated
cages may hide toxic metals underneath; your cage supplier can tell you what your
cage is constructed of.
Perches
Natural wood branches, not dowels, are preferred for most all cage birds. Avoid
plastic, rope, cement, plaster, and sandpaper perches. Though the intent of these
perching substrates is understood, they rarely are better than natural branches.
The perches should be far enough away from the cage walls to prevent tail feather
damage. One perch should be placed higher than all the others since most species
seek the highest spot in the cage. This will give the bird some security. Finches
and canaries enjoy jumping between perches; two perches placed at opposite ends of
the cage will allow this behavior. Avoid positioning food and water containers beneath
perches to prevent soiling.
Cleanliness
Ideally, the cage should be cleaned daily. If not, the feces and food debris
should be separated from the bird by means of a grill or grate placed on the bottom
of the cage. All organic debris such as food waste and feces should be cleaned off
the bars and perches at least weekly. Litter material is usually best for outdoor
aviaries and generally should be avoided for indoor cage birds. Newspaper, brown
and white papers are best to line the cage floor. Changes in fecal consistency and
color are more easily recognized on paper substrates. Some litter materials such
as walnut shells, corn cob crumbles and pelleted hays will grow harmful fungus and
bacteria if allowed to become moist from fecal contamination.
Nutrition
Please see the handout on nutrition for your particular species.
Environment and Activity
Birds acclimated to indoor temperatures cannot adjust to high and low temperature
fluctuations without being stressed. Birds housed outdoors and under varying temperatures
are accustomed to these daily changes and easily cope with highs and lows. Temperatures
comfortable to humans are appropriate for indoor birds.
Humidity is important for the respiratory health of your pet bird. Constant high
humidity without air changes and ventilation promotes fungal infections. Persistently
low humidity often leads to allergies due to excess dust and pollens in the air.
Bathing is a must for most pet parrots. Daily to weekly baths can be provided by
misting, showers, shallow water pans (pie tins) and large bowls. Only fresh, clean
water should be applied to bird plumage. Do not use soaps, disinfectants, anti-picking
tonics or cleansing agents on your bird.
Outdoor exposure, indirect sunlight, fresh air, natural lighting, and exercise are
all beneficial. Schedule a daily time(s) for your bird to be out of its cage. Out
of cage time is essential for the mental and physical health of your bird. Provide
the three types of toys psittacine birds require: climbing toys, chewing toys, and
mentally stimulating toys. Wing trimming prevents escape and injury for those birds
allowed outdoor activity.
Leg bands are placed on birds for identification purposes. Leg bands may be left
on or removed. Preferably, open and split bands should be removed on pet birds.
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