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Having to admininister first aid to your own pet bird can be a frustrating experience,
but with a little medical know-how, a few supplies and a little patience many minor
catastrophes can be handled at home and, hopefully, a crisis prevented. This is a
list of some of the items you may wish to keep on hand in case of a "birdy mishap".
Phone Numbers- by far, this is the most important thing any emergency kit
can contain. Have an alternative number recorded in case your regular avian veterinarian
is not available. Find the closest emergency clinic to you that will treat birds
and have their number as well.
Literature- two books are strongly recommended: Sheldon Gerstenfeld's The
Bird Care Book and Gary Gallerstein's The Bird Owner's Guide To Bird Health
and Home Care. Either are great for a reference but Gerstenfeld's book also has
flow-charts that guide the bird owner to seek help or decide if the emergency can
be handled at home. Pages 109-131 should be well-read and tagged for immediate
reference.
Quik-Stop- a powder used for hemostasis (blood clotting) of superficial or minor
wounds. It can be used safely on broken blood quills, bleeding toenails and small
lacerations. A good substitute is a finely crushed aspirin tablet.
File- used to file down broken toenails before applying Quik-Stop.
Clippers- toenail trimmers (small birds) or dog/cat trimmers (large birds) can
be used to trim back a frayed, bleeding toenail before filing.
Hemostats- a medical clamp referred to as 'forceps'. A substitute is tweezers
or thumb forceps with 'teeth' to catch hold of what you are trying to grasp. Forceps
are good for unknotting string wound around small feet or for grabbing small bleeding
feathers.
Scissors- great for trimming broken, mature feathers. It is not recommended inexperienced
aviculturalists trim broken, bleeding blood quills as the quill may bleed more profusely.
Q-tips- or cotton tipped applicators- aid in the control of hemostasis. Best
for cleaning stains off of feathers and skin (lipstick, oils, etc.) and also to swab
out lower beaks (ie. food debris in baby birds).
Gauze pads- also an aid in the control of hemostasis. Use only sterile pads on
open wounds. Small size pads are easier to use but may be difficult to find.
Bandage Material- bleeding emergencies often warrant the use of pressure wraps
to aid in the application of 'direct pressure' to open lacerations, abrasions and
fractures. Do not apply a wrap if you are uncertain of the proper method. Most bleeding
skin wounds will clot on their own or be 'protected' by the bird from further injury.
Good materials that won't adhere to the plumage are vet-wrap, roll gauze, celophane
tape and some masking tapes.
Toothpick- a flat rounded-end toothpick can be used by well-informed aviculturalists
to remove debris from the nostrils. (Usually this type of emergency can wait until
the next day when you can consult your avian veterinarian).
Disinfectant- many are available. Only use topical disinfectants on open wounds
and skin. Hydrogen peroxide and dilute Nolvalsan are safe and effective if used away
from the mouth, ear canals and eyes. Do not use salves, ointments, petroleum jelly
or other thick or oily subsances on birds! These products mat the plumage and
prevent the bird from insulating itself.
Syringe- a 3 ml syringe without a needle can be used to flush small wounds with
water and/or dilute disinfectant and also to "force feed" an anorexic bird.
It is strongly recommended not to force feed a bird unless specifically instructed
to do so by your avian veterinarian. Many birds will aspirate (inhale particles into
the trachea) if force fed in this manner and thus be pre-disposed to respiratory
infections.
Restraining Towel- a towel that can be ruined or torn with beak punctures, or
blood-stained is preferred. A washcloth is good for most cockatiels, small conures
and small parakeets. Big fluffy bath towels are good for large Amazons, macaws and
cockatoos.
Hospital Area- the carrying cage used to take the bird to the veterinarian often
makes a perfect "bed" for the ill bird. It can be covered with towels/blankets
on all but one side to keep drafts out and warmth in.
Heat Source- a heating pad (set only on low) and insulated with 2 towels underneath
and 1 towel between the pad and cage can be used to keep most small cages between
75-85o F. A floor or space heater placed 4 to 6 feet away with a towel draped over
the cage, between the heater and the cage can also be used.
Thermometer- fish tank thermometers and photographic thermometers measure from
60-120o F and can be safely placed in the hospital area to monitor the actual
temperature. An ill bird should be kept at 80-90o F until transport to your avian
veterinarian.
Container- it is best to keep all of the supplies, or at least the smaller equipment,
in an easily accessible container in a handy place. A water resistant container will
keep the moisture sensitive equipment dry.
Applying First Aid during a crisis will be a stressful time for both you and your
pet bird. Remember the veterinary axiom: don't make the patient worse! Sometimes
human intervention may exacerbate the problem and in these cases, the patient should
be left alone. Here is a list of some common problems that are presented to the avian
veterinarian that may be assisted with at home.
Bleeding Quill- restrain the bird and isolate the bleeding quill with your thumb
forceps. You may need to clean blood from the area first with hydrogen peroxide and
gauze sponges. Using the hemostats, grab the bleeding quill and clamp it firmly.
While supporting the wing with one hand, pull sharply and extract the quill from
the follicle. Apply direct pressure to the follicle by lightly pinching the follicle
between your fingers above and below the wing. Be certain the entire quill has been
removed; if not, try again.
Broken/Bleeding Toenail- usually these can be clipped, filed and clotted with
Quik-Stop/aspirin. Grasp the toe firmly when filing to prevent fraying the nail or
causing damage to the last joint of the toe. Quik-Stop needs to be 'packed' into
the toenail to stop the bleeding. These injuries often occur when one bird walks
on top another's cage.
Traumatized Wing- if fluttering and loud screaming is heard, inspect the bird
for signs of panting, bleeding, wing droop, etc. as evidence of the bird injuring
itself in the cage. Unless there is bleeding under the wing, usually a calm environment
and a warm cage will suffice until veterinary care can be rendered in the morning.
Broken Wing- fractures can occur anywhere along the wing from many types of injuries
(doors, drawers, shoes, cages, other pets) and trying to determine where the fracture
is located is best left for the avian veterinarian. In the meantime, control bleeding
and handle the bird as little as possible to prevent unnecessary flapping of an injured
wing. Some aviculturalists who feel comfortable with bandaging may apply a tape splint
as demonstrated on Page 118 (of Gerstenfeld's book) to support the wing. Usually,
however, the bird is very good at protecting the wing itself. Keep the bird warm
and calm until you can contact your veterinarian for further advice.
Broken Leg- seek veterinary care as soon as possible. Too much handling and restraint
of a bird with a broken leg may result in a compromised blood supply to the lower
part of the leg, especially with open fractures (when the bone is visible or there
is an open wound at the fracture site). A tame bird will not bear weight on the leg
but a flighty pet may damage it further during escape attempts. Leg fractures seldom
will cause a bird to bleed to death, less handling is best.
Dog/ Cat Attack- these are immediate medical emergencies!!..., even if no apparent
injury is visible. Immediately extricate the bird from the animal's mouth and place
it in a warm area, free of disturbance. If bleeding is observed, control hemostasis
with Quik-Stop. If the bird is not too stressed, minimal wound cleaning can be performed
with peroxide or Nolvalsan using gauze sponges or Q-tips. Treat broken legs and wings
as above and rush to your avian veterinarian. It is imperative these birds be seen
promptly as shock, sepsis (bacterial infection of the blood/body) and hemorrhage
often occur if treatment is delayed. You can expect your avian veterinarian to start
your bird on antibiotics and possibly treatment to combat shock. It may require surgery
and hospitalization as well. The best prevention is close observation while the bird
is out of the cage.
Noxious Fumes- cigarette smoke, engine exhausts, cooking odors, non-stick frypans,
butane gas from stoves/heaters, paints and thinners, cleaning agents and pesticide
fumes are the most common. Any noxious fumes around your bird may result in toxicity,
respiratory problems or death. Observe for changes in respiratory rate and depth,
falling off the perch, fluffed plumage, tail-bobbing, no vocalizations and staying
on the cage floor. Immediately, get the bird outside in fresh air--do not hesitate.
Birds highly evolved respiratory system will predispose them to toxicity long before
it will affect people. Fortunately, birds will respond almost immediately when offered
fresh air. Seek veterinary assistance as many birds may be predisposed to developing
secondary respiratory problems even if it appears all right after an insult with
noxious fumes. If you can smell it, get 'em out of there!
Poisons- prevention is the best method of cure. Always observe your bird when
it is out of the cage. If you can't watch it directly, put it back in the cage until
you can. Most plant poisonings will only cause transitory regurgitation but some
are highly toxic such as Mistletoe and Oleander. Home treatment is limited to encouraging
the bird to drink large amounts of water and eating. Be cautious of cleaning fluids
such as bleach and ammonia; both are not only damaging to the respiratory system
but are also caustic to the skin. Rinse the feet with copious amounts of water if
the bird steps in caustic fluids.
Foreign Bodies- short length feeding tubes, key rings and 'split' bells are most
common. A 1 or 2 inch feeding tube does absolutely no good- don't use one. (Better
yet, leave handfeeding to the experts- breeders). Key rings, metal rings and 'split'
bells often get wedged onto the beak. Because the mandibular muscles are so powerful
on birds, great care is needed to remove these objects. Hemostats can be used to
grasp the object without getting fingers bitten. Be careful delicate structures in
the mouth ( ie. choana, tongue, and the lower mandible) are not damaged when the
foreign object is removed. Sometimes these objects need to be cut off, in which case,
veterinary help may be needed. Although these are emergencies, a bit of time can
be taken for rational thought since the bird usually won't damage itself further.
Have a thorough oral exam performed by your avian veterinarian to be sure no other
injury has ocurred.
Head Trauma- almost always a problem associated with fully flighted birds. This
mishap can be easily avoided by simply grooming the bird's wings on a regular basis.
Head trauma cases require immediate therapy with drugs to hopefully prevent neurological
disease. At home, the bird owner can stop bleeding of the nasal cere (the soft fleshy
tissue around the nostrils) by using Quik-Stop. Placing the bird on soft linens in
a small confined container with smooth sides (ie. a shoebox for budgies works well)
will prevent further traumatic injury if the bird has a head-tilt or is blind in
one eye. Keep it warm, calm and the bedding clean. Often these birds may have leg
paralysis or be incontinent, and consequently, will soil their plumage. Providing
food on the container floor and low-level water dishes will help the patient eat
and drink with less effort. A towel 'doughnut' around the bird to prop it up is helpful
for unconscious birds.
Egg Binding- the most common presentation is an overweight, actively laying hen
on a marginal calcium containing diet that gets little exercise. It is not recommended
that bird owners attempt to relieve the bound egg since many birds may become paralyzed
or die if done incorrectly. The best supportive care is to offer a calcium source
(ie. cheese, yogurt, Neocalglucon, powdered egg shell, etc.), warmth, high humidity,
and fresh water and food in close proximity. If discovered early, most of the birds
will do fine overnight with supportive care. The longer she is eggbound, the poorer
the prognosis.
Because of the great longevity many birds have, a mishap is bound to happen, however,
its presence can be delayed by learning what your bird requires and providing for
it. If an accident occurs; rational thought, expediency and preparation may help
save your bird's life. Ask your avian veterinarian if you have questions or concerns
about your bird's specific needs.
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